NEW EMPLOYMENTS FOR GIRLS
By S. F.
A. CAULFEILD.
Part
I.
To
suggest employments for women quite suitable for those belonging to
a social position above the middle classes of society is somewhat
difficult outside those learned professions in which some have already
risen to eminence. For these vocations, comparatively few possess
the means for rendering themselves eligible, and only a certain number
amongst them have the natural qualifications for the profession selected,
and likewise an opening for its exercise.
Thus
my object must now be restricted to pointing out ways and means of
a strictly feminine and suitable character, whereby a small private
fortune may be supplemented by the exertions of industrious hands,
and of intelligent minds that are less highly and generally cultivated.
In
dealing with such a subject we should beware of closing our eyes to
the painful fact that defeat of earnest endeavour and deplorable disappointment
have recently followed the selection of certain amongst these new
vocations. Not long since, in a series of articles on "Women's
Clubs," I had great pleasure in calling attention to what was
a scheme for their employment, extensively diverse in its characteristics.
I allude to the useful "Ladies' Guide" Institution, which
included service of several kinds -- registry offices, a club, with
reading and sleeping apartments, and private reception-rooms, etc.
This society had a"a habitation and a name" in Cockspur
Street, and all was well appointed and in good working order when
I had the pleasure of visiting it for review. But alas! it has disappeared
from its original place; and whether to reappear elsewhere with a
more limited prospectus, for the benefit of themselves and others,
I am as yet unable to say.
But
various doors are open to sharp wits and willing active hands,
and one of the most serious which the bread-earner has to ask
refers to her individual capacity and thorough qualification for
the special work she means to undertake. |
I
must also note the deplorable collapse of some at least of the establishments
of our "Lady Milliners." One would have thought that in
a business like this, where, beyond the unavoidable and heavy items
of rent and taxes, the outlay in material must be comparatively so
small, the returns would be amply satisfactory. For the real value
taken out by the purchaser -- consisting mainly, as it does, in the
good taste of the lady milliner, her deft and delicate handling of
materials, and her selection of beautiful combinations of colour --
the profits of the milliner should be very considerable as against
the outlay made. However this may be, the recent failures in business
amongst these "lady milliners" must prove not a little deterrent
to others in the adoption of this line of business, however gifted
for such an industry, and clever at book-keeping, the intending milliner
may be. Possibly the ladies who have failed employed too many and
too expensive assistants to render the work less fatiguing to themselves,
and to substitute their own inefficiency and lack of experience; or
it may be that in the natural shrinking from being very much en
evidence to the customers the business was carried on in an unsatisfactory
way. Be this as it may, this scheme -- and more or less so of dressmaking
-- has met, so far, with failure in more then one case, and left the
brave aspirant to self-support worse off than when she started on
her somewhat uncongenial enterprise.
I
cannot say that our "Lady Dressmakers," to whom I have referred
en passant, have met with an equal amount of failure as the
milliners; but if so, the result might be due to personal incapacity.
To render success at all likely, she ought to be a thoroughly well-trained
dressmaker herself, experience in practical work; whereas, I fancy
that in most cases good taste
and
a special interest in the fashions, with a certain amount of capital,
are all that she usually brings into the business so far as she is
personally concerned. Thus she has to make over all the practical
direction of the work and supervision afterwards to a substitute,
for whose services she has to pay heavily, and which salary must sweep
away a very considerable portion of any profits that may accrue.
But
various doors are open to sharp wits and willing active hands, and
one of the most serious which the bread-earner has to ask (in reference
to all alike) refers to her individual capacity and thorough qualification
for the special work she means to undertake.
A
Dressmaking and Millinery Club is to be found at 7C, Lower Belgrave
Street, S.W., under the supervision of Miss Younghusband, and competent
lady professionals in this business are sent from this establishment
both to make and mend at private houses at 2s. 6d. a day and board
as "Visiting Dressmakers."
There
are multitudes of girls amongst us who sing well, and who excel in
their playing of more instruments than one; but at the same time they
or their families would object to their adding to their means by becoming
public performers. I sometimes wonder why so few amongst them endeavour
to utilise their musical attainments by attending private evening
or afternoon receptions, and while ostensibly received on a footing
with all the other guests, obtain a confidential acknowledgment of
their services from the friendly hostess to whom they were rendered.
I remember to have known a very nice girl in my early youth, whose
mother was a widow in reduced circumstances, and learned that her
charming singing was sought, through the private recommendation of
friends, and remunerated at a guinea an evening (as it was in my father's
house). Some of my musical readers may say, "The cost of evening
dress and the inability to employ a maid as an escort stand in my
way; and besides this, the friends who might introduce me as a 'Visiting
Musician' to others by inviting me to their own receptions are not
likely to pay a guinea each time for my services when they may chance
to invite a guest who could entertain the rest for nothing."
I answer, with reference to dress, that an inexpensive black lace
gown would be sufficient to answer your purpose for a very long time,
especially by diversifying its appearance a little with coloured trimmings;
or else, for a young girl, a white alpaca would be perfectly suitable,
and cost but little. As to the amount of remuneration and the lack
of a maid to attend you to and fro, half a guinea and two shillings
for cab or train would both pay you and preclude the necessity of
having an attendant. Unnecessary fatigue would thus be spared you,
and the risk of having your dress soiled; and the moderate charge
would ensure your obtaining a greater number of engagements than that
of a guinea would be likely to ensure. As a rule people are only too
apt to rate their services too highly. Doubtless a lady, well brought
up and generally well educated, brings with her recommendations and
special advantages over and above those of persons of a lower class,
brought up with different associations and habits of thought in daily
life. But if she be not as efficient in the special thing which she
brings into the market, in competition with others less favoured in
birth and general training, those who want that special service will
seek elsewhere for what they pay for, from whomsoever it may be obtained,
stipulating only that the provider be respectable. I cannot impress
this fact too strongly on my young friends of the upper class.
Another
field of remunerative work appears to me to present itself to girls
who make themselves proficient in "Cutting-Out." What multitudes
there are everywhere of mothers who cannot afford to employ dressmakers
and seamstresses to manufacture their own and their children's clothing
either for indoors and out. But they have all learnt plain sewing,
and so has the child's maid; and all their difficulty lies in the
fact that the art of cutting-out well and to the best advantage was
not one of their acquirements. To go out by the day as a "Visiting
Cutter" and guest in the family (or else to take your meals alone,
as becoming your position), and to cut out material of all kinds and
garments of every form and use with quickness and decision, might
prove a successful enterprise. But you must be acquainted with all
the new patterns issued for your guidance, and keep well up to the
latest improvements. For this, as for every other art, training is
essential; and this can be obtained at classes held in connection
with the City Guilds
These
are not the days for mere unremunerative recreation for the majority
of our young sisters of the upper classes. Lawn tennis will scarcely
provide them with pocket-money, not to say bread. |
and
Technical Schools at the People's Palace, and at the Royal Polytechnic
Institution. There a three months' training is given for a fee of
five guineas, and a certificate granted. The training comprises private
tuition under a high-class tailor cutter -- the making of dresses,
cutting of underclothing, and needlework; also attendance in large
public classes. Once thoroughly instructed and certificated, you could
advertise as a visiting teacher in private houses, or try your chance
of success in setting up classes in small country towns, charging
as moderately as possible for the lessons given. You might also take
home materials to be cut out, having only to provide yourself with
a proper description of scissors, a set of brass tacks with broad
heads and tiny points, for securing material or paper to a large deal
board or table, and also a marking (or indenting) wheel, to indicate
the lines required on tissue pattern-paper. There are few mothers
or young girls who, were their dresses or mantles cut out for them,
could not manage to put them together with needle and thread. Certainly
the cost of a day's work (or much less) from an efficient cutter would
not be equal in expense to that of employing a good dressmaker, with
the addition of all her petty profits on her purchases of small sundries
for the completion of her work, not to speak of the inconvenience
and the "fash" entailed by her broken promises!
So
I advise some of my needy girl-readers to qualify themselves for this
useful vocation, and leave their addresses at at librarian's or stationer's,
setting up a large card in the shop to advertise to all whom it may
concern, that a cutter of materials and patterns and a teacher of
the art can be obtained by the day (after the plan of Miss Younghusband's
Club) through the proprietor of the shop, who has the lady's name
and private address.
Another
branch of work, that of a "Chaperon Sketcher," might be
advertised in the same way by a lady artist if she be a little past
her extreme youth, by accompanying and directing sketching parties,
through which means many a good draughtswoman, having a quick hand
and effective style, could
supplement
the fitful incomings obtained by the limited sale of her pictures.
Photography
is a kindred art, and to one experienced in it as a "Landscape
Photographer," the taking of country seats, and even less pretentious
dwellings, might yield a fair profit to an itinerate proficient who
advertised in local papers to take interiors as well as exteriors;
and any interesting objects in neighbouring places might be made as
specimens of proficiency and for sale in the stationers' shops. A
little summer holiday might be utilised by those little able to bear
its expenses in this simple way.
It
seems to me that no sooner does a girl return from school than a course
of home study should commence, and be carried on at certain hours
of the day when her mother and young sisters have had their due share
of her filial and sisterly service. This home study should take such
a direction as to enable her to be self-supporting if need be, or
to supplement the small allowance which may scarcely cover her necessary
expenses.
These
are not the days for mere unremunerative recreation for the majority
of our young sisters of the upper classes. Lawn tennis will scarcely
provide them with pocket-money, not to say bread. And yet I may suggest
an exception to the rule, supposing that the game be studied, as now
already in the case of cricket, with a view to being a "Teacher
of Games," and giving lessons in these arts. Already this idea
has been mooted and carried out, and may prove an agreeable and healthful
method of contributing to an empty purse, and bringing a few comforts
into an impecunious home.
It
is possible that by means of advertising, either in daily papers or
magazines, or as I before suggested, by cards in stationers' shops,
engagements as "Walking Chaperon" might be obtained, for
taking children to and from school, and giving them daily walks during
the holidays. In time also of sickness at the children's home, when
there is no one who could be spared to take charge of them, such assistance
would be gladly enlisted by many. To how many a mother, whose nurse
cannot be spared from her infant charge, her home laundry, and needlework,
the services, for a couple of hours daily, of a steady girl of the
upper or at least educated class would be of the greatest advantage,
supposing of course that the charge made were very moderate. All our
girls need a daily walk themselves, and a little pecuniary advantage
might thus be derived from it over and above personal recreation and
benefit to the health.
One
of the most important and more lucrative industries which have quite
recently cropped up for ladies is one respecting which I have already
given a promise of information. It is one for which a woman may be
trained, practically as well as theoretically, in the Agricultural
College at Swanley, Kent. A ladies' branch of the "Home Produce"
Company has been inaugurated, and a house provided for "Lady
Agriculturists" near the original building. Here theoretical
and practical instruction is given, together with some five hours
of daily labour in the gardens and on the farm. Of course they are
not required to do heavy labourers' work; but fruit and vegetable
growing, dairy work, and stock-keeping are within the limits of their
practical work. The fees for instruction and residence amount to £70
per annum, and those who wish to visit the college before making a
final decision are permitted to board in the establishment for a few
days.
But
without undertaking work as arduous, incurring the expenses entailed
by college life, nor the contemplation of an outlay on such an expensive
and risky investment as that of the establishment of a farm, you may
safely venture on the business of gardening and as a "Floral
Decorator." This would include the care of a conservatory, of
window floral decorations, as well as those for fetes, dinners, balls
and weddings, and that of family burial grounds; the making-up also
of wedding bouquets and funeral wreaths. At present such work is very
extensively monopolised by expensive shops; and while a pleasant and
most suitable occupation for ladies with delicate hands and cultivated
taste, a less monopolised market for flowers, and the handiwork their
uses demand, will prove a boon to multitudes who can ill afford to
expend as much on these gratifications as they have up to the present
time. There is a society inaugurated in London, called "The Woman's
Gardening Association," under the management of ladies, who find
employment in this line, and take charge of all the house plants in
the absence of the family from town, which are usually so sadly neglected
by the cook or housemaid, to whose charge they are but too often unhappily
relegated.
Multitudes
amongst my countrywomen have turned their faces towards the Colonies,
and I am able to tell them that, according to the latest prospectuses
issued by Government, there is a demand in Australia and at Cape
Colony and Natal for vine and all fruit-growers... such men and
women will under certain conditions obtain free, or at least reduced,
passages to Queensland and Western Australia. |
The occupation
of "Market Gardening" is being very successfully carried
out at Harrow-on-the-Hill. An account of Miss Grace Harriman's enterprise
is given in one of our contemporary magazines. She writes herself
from the "Hut," Mount Park, Harrow-on-the-Hill. The details
she gives are decidedly encouraging. People might very naturally suppose
that to set up your garden near London would ensure you the best market;
but according to her view and experience a better sale can be made
in sending to a large Midland market, so much so as to make up for
the greater cost of freight. Miss Harriman much insists on united
work, and that it is essential that each lady should invest at last
£100 capital in the enterprise to provide their own share in
house and garden, naming six ladies as a suitable number to attend
to a three-acre garden or fruit plantation, each being responsible
for her own half-acre, and keeping a careful account of the same.
In
addition to the "Agricultural" and the "Market Gardening"
branches of this ladies' industry, there is a third, i.e.,
"Landscape Gardening." In this department a good authority,
in the person of Miss Wilkinson, who has made her name at this profession,
is of opinion that there is "a great opening for women in horticulture,"
and some in landscape gardening likewise; evidenced by her own adoption
of this department. Besides the work which she has done in other directions,
she has proved her thorough efficiency by her skill in the laying-out
of open spaces in London.
A
fourth department in connection with industry having reference to
the produce of the earth is "Jam-making." For this, some
extra expenditure is necessary over and above the purchase or long
lease of land and cottage and of fruit-trees. There must be a factory,
and a steam-boiling apparatus would be required, involving the employment
of a man to keep it at work and in order. In other branches of produce-raising
the expenditure would be less. For instance, pruning, grafting, and
budding, the potting and training and arrangement of flowers, and
making of cuttings, provide lucrative employment without cost of capital.
Thus there is an opening to those without as well as those so fortunate
as to possess it.
A
series of lectures (eight in number) on "London Gardening"
was given by Mrs. T. Chamberlain, F.R.H.S., at the Portman Rooms last
spring, and those who lost the opportunity of hearing them may apply
to this lady for information, and possibly for tuition, at 39, Drayton
Gardens, S.W.
Multitudes
amongst my countrywomen have turned their faces towards the Colonies,
and I am able to tell them that, according to the latest prospectuses
issued by Government from the Emigrants' Information Office (31, Broadway,
Westminster, S.W.), there is a demand in Australia and at Cape Colony
and Natal for vine and all fruit-growers, and those who understand
pruning such trees; for market-gardeners and dairymen -- and I suppose
dairywomen -- and that such men and women will under certain conditions
obtain free, or at least reduced, passages to Queensland and Western
Australia.
I
may supplement my suggestions as to making a practical profession
of these several departments of flower, fruit, and cereal culture,
by suggesting that the theoretical acquaintance with these subjects,
or some of them, may offer remunerative work. Lecturing on these subjects
and giving private lessons to those would-be professionals who cannot
afford to go through a college course, or even lessons for the benefit
of amateurs in gardening, might afford a livelihood to many, and in
any case add to their limited means. I have given much space comparatively
to this subject, because it is so many-sided, and likely to suit persons
of small means in some one of the branches indicated.
Having
already spoken of Millinery, Dress-making, Visiting Dressmakers, Visiting
Musicians, Cutting-Out, Visiting Cutter and Teacher, Chaperon Sketcher,
Landscape Photographer, Teacher of Cricket and other Games, Walking
Chaperon for Children, Agriculture, Floral Decoration, Care of House
Plants, Market Gardening, Landscape Gardening, Fruit-growing, and
Jam-making, I still have as many more occupations suitable for ladies
to undertake, of which I hope to treat in another article.
To
be continued, though possibly not by me.